Solomons Diary: A family do

You will find Sikaiana and its population of 400 just above the A in Solomon Islands

Sometimes you just find yourself in the right place at the right time. An Australian Paramedic, Gordon, who worked in the Solomons a while ago had returned to visit his local girlfriend, Barbara. This is a regular thing for him as their relationship is getting quite serious. As a result, Barbara’s family asked him out to their village for a bit of a celebration of his return. Gordon was told he could bring a few friends and we got an invitation. There are many villages that will welcome tourists to see local life for a kastom fee, but this was a fabulous opportunity to see genuine, non-commercial village having a authentic celebration.
Not only was this the real thing, but it turns out Barbara’s family (for that read Barbara’s village) are not Gwale – people from Guadalcanal. The family migrated from the tiny Solomons island of Sikaiana about a generation ago. Unlike the rest of the country Sikaianans are Polynesian so we were treated to feasting and dancing differs from what you would see in most villages on this island.
The Solomons archipelago of 900+ islands is so widespread and until recently diverse that cultures vary enormously. Western province people are very dark skinned and share much with their PNG neighbours, all of whom are Melanesian. The further East you go the lighter the skin becomes and the more Polynesian the influence. It was a bit of a surprise to see dancing that I associated with Hawaiian people.

We drove about half an hour East of the capital through Copra plantations to Red Beach, the site of one of the major American landings in WW2. Although most of us had come ready for swimming in the warm coastal water we changed our minds when stories emerged of large salt water crocodiles found in the shallows. The village was an idyllic little place set just back from the beach. Unfortunately the ethnic tensions (a polite way of describing the inter-island massacres of the 90’s) are never far away. Barbara explained to us that during the tensions half the village had fled in fear of their lives. Their houses were, and still are, occupied by Gwales. Although everyone seemed to be getting on, the Sikaianans that returned after the tensions died down are still waiting for compensation for their houses and land some 5 years later. To further complicate the situation, as the Solomons does so well, the half of the village that stayed has limited sympathy for the other “cowardly” section of the community.

All this aside, we were shown around the village and made to feel very welcome. The church was proudly shown off and the pikininis gave us a terrifying display of tree climbing. We were then treated to a stunning banquet of locally caught fish and chicken, cassava, rice and tropical fruits of every description. These people really know how to eat well. Although Barbara’s family did not start until it was clear we were full, there was food left over even after the entire village had eaten. This was then washed down with generous, but unrefrigerated Solbrew.
After all of this the dancing began.

A typical village house

This was not a demonstration but the normal culmination of an afternoon of celebration. Barbara and Gordon were clearly the focus of the festivities. The music was provided by the assembled voices in fantastic harmonies, clapping and what I termed a Solomons drum machine – a small wooden box that was thumped with a stick until it collapsed during the last number. I hope the pictures I’ve included give some sort idea about the raucous enjoyment that characterised the dances. The ladies dressed up in their lavalavas first and then the men, led by Barbara’s father, Desmond.

Gordon was encouraged to dance with them which was a really nice inclusive gesture. He gave it a red hot go, but not having performed these dances since a small child like the others he retired gracefully and exhausted after a while. Finally Barbara and her cousin Juju performed some dances much to the ladies pleasure. Their pride was palpable. Throughout this the pikininis almost exploded with excitement, at one stage forming their own percussion ensemble with empty Solbrew cans and sticks.